Hutongs in Beijing

The memorable tour by tricycle - a taste of old Beijing

"Hutong" is a kind of ancient city alley or lane typical in Beijing. It is in fact the passage formed by the lines of Siheyuan (the traditional residential areas of the people of Beijing, also known as Beijing Quadrangle), which is formed by four small buildings around a courtyard. One Hutong connects with another, and Siheyuan connects with Siheyuan, to form a block, and blocks join with blocks to form the whole ancient Beijing city. A lot of Hutongs run east-west because many Siheyuan all face the south for a better lighting. Most are narrow alleys but some are wide streets that run for several kilometers.

Hutong contains the culture of Beijing history and common people's life. There were many Hutongs scattered around the ancient Beijing city. It is kind of a pity that nowadays more and more of these old living quarters are fast disappearing to make way for high-rise buildings. Endless 'modernization' means more Hutong districts are to be redesigned. That may be why many tourists are glad to have the opportunity to see them while they're still standing. It is said that today there are about 4.550 Hutongs in Beijing. Most of them were built in Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasty (1271-1911). Tour the 700 years old Hutongs by pedicab is a very memorable thing. Walk in the tiny streets where people live as they have for generations, appreciating traditional old Beijing style residential architecture and exploring the old yet not lost life styles in Beijing.

Directions

The Hutong area that our customers like most is around the Bell and Drum Towers and the Shichahai District, where the Hutongs will likely remain protected for their architectural value. If you take the Subway, get on Line 2 (the Circular Line) and get off at Jishui Tan or Gulou Street Subway Station which would put you close to the Hutong area. If you are going to Beijing and have a 5-7day stay in mind China Odyssey Tours strongly suggest you allow yourself a full day to the this area.

There are other places in Beijing to see Hutongs, such as Niujie (Ox Street) and the Qianmen area, but they are fast disappearing to meet the demands of modern development.

Rickshaws

In some areas, the Hutongs can be so narrow that it is not accessible by car, only by bike, or pedicab. It is an interesting, relaxing, lovely, genuine and different way to do some of the exploring of the Hutong district.

For those who are willing to probe the way the Chinese live, organized tours of Beijing hutongs are available. You will be taken by rickshaw (a tricycle cab), of which there is an abundant supply around the Bell and Drum Towers and the Shichahai District. You will see the red rickshaws with the slogan "To the Hutong!" printed on the back of the canopy. The drivers wear bright yellow vests so that you can easily find them again after getting out at stops along the way. It will be lucky to have a "local, local guide”. The drivers will drive you through the Hutongs on a 40 minute or 1 hour tour in their old-fashioned pedicabs. They are pleasant, fun, and work very hard to make a living. You can visit the Bell and Drum Towers, Shicha Hai, Prince Gong's Mansion and even pay a visit to an ordinary Beijing family living in Hutongs.

Alternatively, you can walk this area on foot if you don't want to ride in the rickshaws, or you can also rent your own bicycle. It is a good idea for independent travelers with good map reading skills and a clear sense of direction or someone who is willing to get lost. It might be more fun and you're not time limited. You can pedal round while doing whatever walking is required. You can take the time to pause, reflect, absorb and enjoy. If you really become lost, call a cab. In any case, it is a really nice experience.

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Hutong Tour

At first glance all Hutongs in Beijing are formed by lining buildings with gray walls and gray tiles. But in fact, it is not that simple. Walking around, you'll find that every Hutong has something more to be talked about.

Hutong is like a narrow walled street where the walls are grey and intermittently broken by red doors which are entrances to homes. Each compound behind the walls called Siheyuan, usually consisting of a quadrangular courtyard and one-storey buildings around it, which could house a few families, usually related. Many are now renovated and still full of life. Most are well kept and some have been modernized with central heating and indoor bathrooms. But nothing of the home can be seen from the outside. You can get into an organized Hutong tour which includes a visit into the homes. They may arrange with local people to visit their courtyards and rooms and taste their food. You may even visit daycare centers and schools in Hutongs.

You can also find typical stores: small bakeries, small liquor and cigarette stores, small markets selling vegetables and everyday products, small hair salons, small bike repair shops, public telephone booth, and even tourist shops.  

What's more important is that when you are exploring Hutong you can get close to the people who live there. Hutongs are streets full of life and stories. They represent a communal world of neighbors and shared lives. It will be a shock to cross the bustling city streets and explore the more quiet alleys, where people sit in front of their houses chatting, where old guys play Go or Chinese chess over a friendly drink surrounded by spectators, where older residents do Chinese-style exercises and where children play around on the narrow streets. You might be invited to visit their homes and have a fascinating conversation with the local getting some insights into a "real" Beijinger's life: sit down somewhere on a tiny bamboo chair in front of a tiny table to drink tea, crackle some sunflower seeds and talk with them like good friends. If you are there at a meat time, you may be invited to a family "banquet" with local dishes. You will feel you are near the real people's Beijing to a much greater extent than the 'big' tourist attractions.

Today, many inhabitants might be happy to be resettled in a more modern apartment in the future. However, many still wish to remain. The architecture and lifestyle you find there is part of China's culture. The small houses and yards, round doors and typical roof shapes reflect the atmosphere and living conditions of former day Beijing. .

Drum Towers (Gulou) and Bell Tower (Zhonglou)

The Drum and Bell Towers are not "must see" destinations in Beijing. But the hutong tours usually end in this area and so they're worth a visit just to go up one and look at the view and get a glimpse of Beijing's residential neighborhood life..

Location

Several kilometers north of the Forbidden City, the Drum and Bell Towers lie on the northern end of the central axis of Beijing city. The Drum Tower lies about 100 meters to the south of the Bell Tower. The two towers are separated now by a small, busy square where locals compete for space with the tourist coaches and rickshaws. Open 9.30 am to 4.30pm; small entry fee for each tower.

Function

The two towers look so different, but perform the same function - for they were the timekeepers for the whole city of three dynasties - Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties. For centuries the two towers set the pace and the rhythm of daily life for everyone from emperors to the lowest citizens. The Drum was formerly used to keep time at night while the Bell was rung to announce the hours of day. Starting at 7 o'clock the drums would be beaten every two hours all through the night until 7 o'clock the next morning. During the day the bell tower had the same function. The drums and bells could be heard throughout the old city, the sounds carrying far across the rooftops. Only after 1924, when Beijing people were able to set their own time without the drums and bells, did the two towers finish their mission.

Drum Tower (Gulou)

The Drum Tower was built in 1273, being one of the oldest buildings in Beijing. It seems more elegant than the Bell Tower. From a small doorway in the rear, a tremendous steep stone stairway leads up to the upper floor where 25 drums are arranged around. Some extra drums are on display, including a drum damaged by the European forces after the Boxer Uprising, and the world's largest drum.

Walking counter-clockwise around the walls, the Chinese time system is explained on panels. Every hour, there is a drum show performed by a cadre of magnificently-dressed imperial drummers. The rhythmic beating of the drums was an entertaining but improbable recreation of the old days. Nowadays everyone has a watch.

Bell Tower (Zhonglou)

Across the square behind is the Bell Tower, a 33 meter high tower with gray walls and a green glazed roof. The Bell Tower was first built in 1272 and looked similar to the Drum Tower but later was rebuilt after a fire in 1747during the Qing dynasty.

The Bell Tower originally housed a huge iron bell, but it was not loud enough and was replaced by a massive bronze bell still there today. You can climb a steep stone stairway to the upper floor to see the bell. It is suspended in the center of a platform, but it is not rung anymore. It was made in the 15th century, 5.4 meters high, with a thickness of 27 cm and a diameter of 3.4 meters. It is said that you could hear this bell from a distance of 20 kilometers. Meanwhile, you can have a good view over the surrounding Hutongs and the Drum Tower opposite it.

Shicha Hai

Besides going to those historical Hutongs, don't forget to take a stroll around 'Shicha Hai'. Every Beijinger knows where it is. It is extremely popular, especially among white-collars who go there to relax themselves a bit after a tiring day of work. There are small but serious lakes here, connected to one another thru little water channels and bridges for the pedestrians.

The entire Shicha Hai Area consists of 3 lakes - Qian Hai -Front Lake, Hou Hai - Back Lake and Xi Hai - West Lake. These lakes were dug out during the 14th century to berth barges that were bringing goods to the Forbidden City.

Hou Hai (Back Lake) is the most amazing area. Many interesting stores and also some very good restaurants line the banks of the lake. You can sit in a restaurant nearby where you could have a very nice view of the lake. After having the beer and delicious Chinese food in the restaurant you can boat on the lake. There are the normal hand boats and also very nice traditional boats each with a traditional dressed Chinese girl playing PiPa (lute) at the front of the boat and a Chinese guy paddle on the afterbody of the boat. It looks also so nice. On winters, the frozen Hou Hai Lake becomes an ice skating rink.